East to meet West for Armani's men next summer

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Models display creations as part of Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2009 men's collection in Milan
East will meet West next summer for Giorgio Armani male fans with Asian inspired long shirts, shantung trousers and fitted jackets, the Italian designer suggested in his menswear show, which won him loud applause.

Models wear outfits as part of the men's spring/summer 2009 fashion collection at Milan Fashion Week. AP Armani, the last of the big names to present his ideas at Milan's spring/summer 2009 men's shows on Tuesday, chose to put bindies on the foreheads of some of his models, dressed in flowing bright pink shirts and dark shorts for a beachy look.

The designer, one of Milan's long established names, turned out flowing designs with perfect tailoring that were easy to wear and relaxed. Scarves sat on shoulders instead of hanging down the neck, and they also replaced belts on trousers.

Models display creations as part of D&G Spring/Summer 2009 men's collection during Milan Fashion Week June 24, 2008
He favored Prince of Wales check and chalk stripes for jackets, short and slim and worn over a double-breasted waistcoat, with a loose untucked or Asian-style shirt.

Trousers were light, varying from Indian, Balinese and Malaysian styles, sometimes with printed patterns, and generous in dimensions. Some were drawstring, others were tighter below the knee. Shorts were below the knee.

"(The clothes) are relative to a type of climate, a well-being," Armani tells reporters backstage, saying there is "a pinch of personal interest" in the collection as he is about to open stores in India.

The main colors of the collection included an almost-grey green, light grey, putty and violet.

Shoes came in a choice of snakeskin, crocodile and woven hopsack, or laced, again in an Asian style. Guests included actors Clive Owen and Adrien Brody as well as Thai Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana.

"I loved the colors, (they were) really amazing," Owen says after the show, which ended with Armani walking to greet the line of obeisantly cross-legged male and female models facing him.
Italian designer Roberto Cavalli offered men's tops and trousers decorated with prints of pictures he had taken of an African sunset and overlapping palm leaves at his spring/summer 2009 show on Sunday.

A model displays a creation as part of Roberto Cavalli Spring/Summer 2009 men's collection during Milan Fashion Week June 22, 2008
Images of floral bouquets and animal prints also featured in his menswear collection, entitled Bohemian Safari, on the second day of Milan fashion week.

Cavalli, who also sent out female models in long, floating dresses - some with gold chain detailing hugging the frame - says he envisioned an extravagant man, an explorer, "a hippie and a nomad, who wears memories from a safari on himself".

"(Next summer's) man is very free," he says.

Colors were vivid with doses of white, dark brown, red, geranium and intense blue. Silhouettes were skinny on top and large at the bottom or the contrary. Kaftans and shirts with airy sleeves were paired with pyjama trousers or skinny printed jeans.

Cavalli catered for all temperatures, going from jumpers and thickish, holey scarves to tight colorful swimwear. Leather belts were tied around jackets, some with no collars.

Bottega Veneta presented what it called an "extended meditation" on the jacket, starting with an unlined, light, pyjama-inspired jacket in printed cotton or cashmere and moving on to "double" jackets of two monochromatic layers.

A model displays a creation as part of Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2009 men's collection during Milan Fashion Week June 22, 2008
Designer Tomas Maier also sent out models in blazers in knit and jersey, finishing with a white shantung silk dinner jacket.

"Thinking about menswear clothes, for me the most important item is the jacket," Maier says after the show. "I also like the fact that the man is more covered. There is a lot of nudity out there and I think it is a little bit too much."

Trousers were loose, made from crisp cotton or double-pleated gabardine, and sometimes cuffed. Navy blue and cobalt dominated, with neutrals glimpsed on the lapel facings of jackets. Patterns were stripes and Vichy checks.

At D&G, the less formal line of designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, the look was nautical, inspired by the French Riviera.

The duo stuck to white and navy blue, with small dabs of red appearing in patterned trousers, bow-ties and on linings. The more casual look suggested jersey vests, slim cut trousers and Bermuda shorts with nautical-themed prints while cotton knitwear was accessorized with a silk neck scarf.

More than 40 designers held catwalk shows at Milan fashion week, which ended on Tuesday.



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